Cold and Wet on Day 3

Was I ever cold, 10 to 12 degrees, and raining when I was crossing the Pyrenees.

My self and a group of pilgrims started walking at 8:05am on the foggy and wet road from Orisson, in France, to Roncevalles, in Spain. Initially it wasn´t that bad but when we got out onto the upper heights there was a wind and our hands were so cold. If it hadn´t been for the wonderful Germans, Cecilia, Monica, Gerta, I think I would still be walking or freezing up there. Most of the walk today was uphill and that lasted for about 4 hours. I have sore hips, and the ankle I twisted :-( on the way down the stairs on my first walking day hurt again. The light rain never really let up and when we stopped for drinks we would get quite cold. We arrived in Roncesvalles at about 1:15 pm soaking wet inside, and out.....and are now in a large monastery hall with 60 bunk beds which are full. Ancient pilgrims also stayed here...so much history, and now pain as well as fun and kindness.

And Scott and Daniel, it was hard but I couldn´t have done today without your help in the last 6 months. On day 1 I walked up hill comfortably for 1 1/2 hours and on day 2 a very difficult hour...quite steep. Scott it is very hard to lie on a tennis ball on an ancient monastery stone floor! but boy I was glad my "glutes" ? and abdomen were strong :-). Today I know where my thigh muscles are!

The sights we saw were just wonderful, views of villages amongst beautiful green fields on hills and valleys, beautiful strong ponies, sheep and shepherds, exquisite beech forests with muddy, leafy floors, green moors with rough rocks, and clouds, below us, as we got higher and higher!

I can't believe I have crossed over the Pyrenees. I was quite afraid at the beginning of today´s walk as once we had walked 2 hours, we still had 3 to go before we could find shelter

Clarisa Peregrina

A little taste of France in Arbonne

In two hours Jennifer and Jean Marie will be taking me to SJPP where I will start to walk tomorrow. The last two days have been so very nice. J and JM's home is lovely, and comfortable, and built in the typical Basque style as required by the council of the area:

I slept soundly for two nights in a lovely room in a sort of attic with little windows which let in the fresh country air as well as the sounds of the birds and the occasional crow of the local rooster which I especially like. From my bedroom window I can see the garden shed, the neighour's house and the mountains I will climb tomorrow.

I have tried some lovely new and interesting dishes which have included duck fillet, local mushrooms and even had raw baby artichoke hearts with a little butter and a salt with chilles (La Force Basque, production de : un melanges de fleur de sel, persil plus garlic, plus piment d'espelette et baies roses).

It is time for me to go to SJPP now....with a little fear....in my tummy..........

Silence in Paris

What a beautiful day to arrive in Paris!

I smiled my way through the city to Montparnasse....loving the gorgeous buildings, with their lovely roofs, doors and balconies, and taking in every little French cafe I passed.

At Montparnasse train station I befriended Ghistain from Descartes who helped me to find my way on to the very fast French train (TGV) which would take me to Biarritz!

I am amazed! so far no one has stamped my passport, nor looked at my train ticket and I have been in Paris for several hours.

I have found France VERY quiet except for the announcements at the airport, train station and on the train. After such long flights, it is nice to be in silence :-) It makes it easy to notice things with my eyes and I am sure it has helped me to stay calm and arrive safely in lovely Arbonne, with ALL my gear (for those who know me well this is quite an achievement :-).

'Claripere'

(my new French name short for Clarisa Peregrina :-)

Buen Camino

Now that I am on my way, you must all say to me, “Buen Camino, Clarisa”. This is what people who live along the Camino say to pilgrims as they walk past them.

I am off on a walk... about 800 km long, from St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) at the foothills of the Pyrenees in southern France, up and over the mountains, through northern Spain, to Santiago de Compostela, the supposed site of the burial place of St James the Apostle. I will be walking the Camino Frances, a pilgrim trail used in the Middle Ages and as far back as the 3rd and 4th centuries. In other words, I am going on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

On the 4th of May 2008 I fly from Adelaide to Paris; and on the 5th I take the fast train to Biarritz where I am staying for two nights with Jennifer, a friend from my youth in Peru. There I will be able to recover from the long flight before I start walking.

On 7th May Jenny will take me to SJPP (St Jean Pied De Port, less than an hour away) where I will stay the night in a pilgrims' hostel in order to prepare for Day 1 of my 'Camino' (Spanish for path, road or way).

Apparently, the first day is one of the most difficult days, as it is mostly a straight uphill climb for several kilometres from SJPP. I have decided to take it very slowly (most pilgrims have time restrictions) and take 3 days to get to Roncesvalles. After about a week, I hope I will be able to get into a nice walking rhythm where I should be able to walk about 20 km a day.

I will be sleeping in pilgrim refuges (refugios, or albergues). Pilgrims can only stay one night in each refuge and must carry a pilgrim's passport, or 'credencial', which is stamped at each refuge. Refugios are usually provided by the towns along the Camino and could be in an old monastery, castle, church hall; or even purpose built. 

Pilgrims walk in all sorts of weather and carry all their belongings in a backpack, about 7 to 10 kilos. The lucky ones, those who are easily able "let go" of their material possessions and, or  able to buy extremely light weight gear, seem to manage 6 kilos! My stuff already weighs more than that! 11 kilos...

Have a look here at one of my favourite pictures of the Camino, which I found on the internet. If you look carefully you can see more than one pilgrim walking:

My favourite Camino photo (off the Internet)

Many pilgrims walk on their own, but often meet others along the way that become 'long lost friends' when they meet up again on the road a week later, or in another village, or even in Santiago. I too plan to walk on my own because I wouldn’t want to hold anyone up, nor have to wait for someone to catch up, but I hope to walk with others when it “happens”. I hope I will arrive in excellent condition :-) in Santiago, so that I can walk the extra 100 km to the to "Finesterre", a village at "the end of the world" on the Atlantic coast, beyond Santiago; and where many prefer to end their Caminos.

Today, as before, people from all walks of life are travelling the Camino. They do it for the joy of walking, for spiritual reasons, for the adventure, or the challenge; or to think about things; and most of those who complete the Camino, experience a lifetime within a lifetime. They find answers to questions, reflect upon their lives, learn about themselves and participate in wonderful moments, where people from all over the world come together for a common purpose: to walk to Santiago, finding joy and kindness; and peace with themselves.

Mind you there are a lot of sore muscles, shoulders, backs, knees and feet, big blisters and itches, and many other discomforts, such as finding a place to sleep, or a cafe that is open when you are hungry; losing your way and having to walk an extra 3 km because of it; walking through freezing wind and rain on muddy paths; carrying the weight of your belongings on your back; and so on. 

I am sure that when I see what I have to do on my first day, as I look up towards the Pyrenees, with my 11 kilo pack (plus, or minus), on my back; and see the sign to Santiago de Compostela 800 'kilometros'! I will wonder what the heck I am doing there, and whatever possessed me to do this mad crazy thing. But walking the Camino has got a hold on me and I have thought about little else for over a year.

Well on my way up the Pyrenees on Day 1 with full kit including raincoat which covers my backpack and 2 smaller front packs, not very nice for photos but very convenient for carrying food, water, map and raincoat.

I am including a link to Sil, one of my favourite Camino mentors...

http://ama-walker-walker.theboys.co.za/2008_03_01_archive.php

whom I met in one of the pilgrim forums...

www.pilgrimage-to-santiago.com

....so that you can perhaps see why I might be possessed, or is it obsessed? :-) . I only wish I had the skills to present you all with such a lovely blog site as Sil's, but I think you will just have to hope that I manage to write something every now and then; and perhaps manage to post a photo or two of my own.

Love,
Clarisa Peregrina

Scallop Shells and Santiago de Compostella